Q : What is the return policy?
Return Policy & Instructions
1. All Items must be returned within 30 days of the purchase date
2. You must include a copy of your order confirmation or receipt for a refund
3. All items must be returned in good working condition
4. Pack the item(s) securely in the original box, with all paperwork and accessories to ensure any refund
5. There is a 15% restocking fee on all returns
6. Shipping charges are non refundable
7. We do not accept C.O.D. deliveries
8. For your protection, we recommend that you use UPS or Insured Parcel Post for your return. We will not refund or replace any lost or damaged items that you have returned to us
9. Keep your tracking number to ensure that the package is returned safely to our warehouse
10. You can expect a refund in the same form of payment originally used for purchase within 30 days of our receiving your return
18606 E. Mainstreet Suite 3-304
Parker, CO 80134
Damaged or Missing Items
If there is extensive damage or missing parts to an item upon delivery, you must report it within 48 hours of receiving your order to ensure a replacement. Instructions will be given at that time. Please call our customer service line at (303) 646-2029 from 8:30a – 5:00p EST, Monday – Friday.
Q : Will these jigs work on cathedral or vaulted ceilings?
They will work for most cathedral or vaulted ceilings. We provide full instructions on how to cut molding for vaulted and cathedral ceilings on our instructional DVD. Click here to add it to your cart, or click here to learn more about the DVD.
Q : What is the maximum width of the crown molding I can use with the jigs?
We can only recommend using molding up to 6″ wide with our jigs.
Q : Are there other spring angles than 38°, 45° and 52°?
Yes, you can run across custom spring angles at custom molding shops. We manufacture jigs for the three common spring angles available at Home Depot, Lowe’s or your local lumber store. We do not manufacture custom spring angle jigs. If you are purchasing custom molding, be sure and ask what spring angle it is, or you can request a 38°, 45° or 52° spring angle in order to use the Cut-N-Crown System with your custom molding.
Q : Will my 10″ miter saw work?
There are a couple of 10″ miter saws that will not work with the Cut-N-Crown System. The general rule is, the wider the crown molding, the larger the saw you will need. All 10″ saws are geometrically different in range and size. Some can accommodate 4 3/4″ molding with no problem, and others you will have to move up to a 12″, it just depends on your saw and the width of your molding.
Q : Will this work with dentil molding?
Some dentil molding is uneven when placed face down. For molding that has a high point or rocks when you place it face down, you can make the cuts on the right side of the saw face up. This is only necessary for the two cuts that require a face down position with uneven faced molding. Most crown molding is level when placed face down.
Q : How can I support longer pieces of molding?
Roller stands are great for supporting longer pieces of crown molding. Some saws come with custom roller stands or you can purchase generic roller stands, but we have developed Custom Roller Heads to attach to a variety of roller stands. They will hold your molding at the exact angle that the jigs hold the molding on the saw. The molding will fall into the pocket necessary for the cut you are making so you don’t have to move the stands for each cut. They also work great for base molding.
Q : My miter cut at the corner has a gap at the top but is snug at the bottom. What am I doing wrong?
This means that you are using the wrong spring angle jig. You need to measure the spring angle again, following the instructions on the spring angle page, and use the matching jig.
Q : Will the Cut-N-Crown System work on bullnose corners?
Yes, the Cut-N-Crown System makes professional bullnose corners. A “bullnose corner” describes a corner that has a rounded or curved edge. Fitting crown molding around a corner of this type involves cutting smaller transition pieces to fit between the main sections of molding. Very easy and fast. The instructional DVD covers this technique and many others.
Q : What if my Mite-R-Gage or angle finder is reading 135°?
It is reading the reciprocal of the actual corner degree. Take 180° and minus 135°. It is actually a 45° corner. Divide 45° in half (22.5°) and that is your miter setting. Most protractors work this way on larger corners.
Q : What about pre-finished crown molding? Won’t there be tear out when cutting from back to front?
A good sharp saw blade will prevent tear out “Tear out” in this case describes a situation where the saw blade cuts through the softer, unfinished wood before it reaches the harder finished surface. The pressure from the unfinished wood pushing out causes the finished surface to crack and splinter. To avoid this, it is always best to situate your material so that the saw teeth cut into the finished surface first, but there is actually an alternative for cutting pre-finished molding. You will set your saw to a left hand miter and set up for the cut on the left hand side of the saw like normal, and then simply swing only the jig and material in a half moon (or mirror image) to the right side of the saw. Don’t move the saw. Leave the saw at a left hand miter and make the cut. This will change the blade rotation but will still give you the most accurate cut because you are not moving the saw position.
Q : Can I use the Cut-N-Crown System for crown molding on cabinets?
Yes. Provided you are buying your own crown molding for your cabinets, you would use the same three-step process we describe in our instructions here to cut your crown molding. You would then simply install the molding to the cabinets instead of the ceiling. It is important to note that there is a category of crown molding that often comes packaged with new cabinetry. This type of crown molding has an extra lip at the bottom for mounting to the cabinets, making it incompatible with our jigs because it will not lay flat.
Q : What makes the Cut-N-Crown System easier and more accurate than other methods?
The Cut-N-Crown System is revolutionary because it has the only jigs on the market that allow the user to make all cuts from the left hand side of the saw. By not moving your saw position between opposing cuts, you achieve perfect miters because it eliminates the mechanical error that always occurs when moving your saw from left to right. Following the easy set-up pictures for each cut eliminates human error and wasted molding. It also eliminates the bevel adjustment from the equation, reducing it to a simple miter cut. This makes having a compound miter saw unnecessary: all you need is a regular miter saw. We have tackled all of the frustrating elements and created an easy, fast, and accurate method for cutting crown molding.
Q : Where can I buy 2P-10 Solo glue?
Go to the website www.fastcap.com and in the right hand column under “Adhesive Systems,” click on the link for 2P-10 Solo “2P-10 Solo” stands for “two-part, ten second bond adhesive.” To use simply apply the adhesive, spray the activator, and stick the glued sides together for a strong permanent bond. 2P-10 Solo is used most often in professional carpentry, where a strong bond with quick adhesion is very important. Then, click on “where to buy” and enter your zip code. The site will give you a list of stores near you that carry 2P-10 Solo, although we recommend calling in advance.
Q : How does the Cut-N-Crown System eliminate coping?
The reason that coping “Coping” is a crown molding technique where one side of a joint is cut square to butt up against the wall, and the other side is cut to fit the contoured face of the first. This diagram shows what a coped joint looks like: Diagram 1A typical coped joint became popular because it was very difficult to make perfect inside miters. The second reason was to compensate for separation from expansion and contraction. The Cut-N-Crown System makes perfect miters quickly and easily. When you have a perfect miter, it becomes a glueable joint thus solving the separation problem. Mitered corners look better than coped corners and are much less labor intensive. We can’t think of any reason to cope anymore, however, if you still want to cope, the Cut-N-Crown System will give you a perfect inside miter from which to cope.
Q : Will the Cut-N-Crown System work with corners that are not square?
Most corners are not square. We highly recommend the Mite-R-Gage to measure the exact degree of every corner. When you know the exact degree, you can set your miter to exactly half and make both cuts. Your miters will come out perfect!